![]() You can turn off individual photos by unchecking their boxes on the left filmstrip. Your images will now be merged into a single photo (Figure 3). I organize each set of photos in its own folder, so I used the folder option. Open Photoshop and choose File > Automate > Merge to HDR (Figure 2). Time to merge the photos into a single 32-bit image. Also avoid any moving subjects in the photo or you’ll get ghosting.įigure 1. If you change the aperture, the depth of field won’t be consistent and you’ll get blurring. You want to bracket the exposure time, not the Aperture. Make sure you shoot in Aperture Priority or in Manual. ![]() You can still create HDR if your camera doesn’t support RAW. I shoot in RAW mode for the widest possible dynamic range. When I hold the shutter down, three photos will be captured (Figure 1). I set the bracketing on my camera to two stops. If you’re shooting rounded and curved surfaces you will want to lower your bracketing to get smoother gradients. As I shoot a lot of cityscapes I can get away with two stops, because I’m mainly shooting flat surfaces and banding and posterization isn’t such a problem. In this case, I used two-stop bracketing. Start with three images: one normal exposure, the second underexposed, and the third overexposed. Photoshop will not allow you to merge these because there isn’t sufficient tone detail captured.įor more details, see the new video HDR and Photoshop. Note: For a true HDR photo, you can’t use a single raw image and exposure it several times. ![]() Also, you’re better off shooting with a tripod, although Photoshop CS3’s Auto-align technology lets you create HDR without one. ![]() If you’re shooting people, you may want to reduce this to even third stops. It’s a bigger bracket than most people are comfortable with, but for the type of HDR images I like to create (cityscapes), it works well. I like to over expose and under expose by two stops. I personally get good results from three shots. You may also take five or more shots with a smaller gap in the bracketing. You will need to shoot a minimum of two photos with different exposure settings.Īdobe recommends limiting the bracketing by one stop to reduce banding. ![]() (If you already have a 32-bit 3D image, skip to step 6.) Typically we will capture these with our camera. This tutorial will show you how to complete this process with the minimum fuss.īut first we need to get our source images. Finally, merge these photos in Photoshop CS2 or CS3 to produce a single image with a larger range of tones that can now show all the details in the shadows and highlights. Shoot normal exposure, then under-expose a shot to capture highlights and over-expose a shot to capture shadow detail. The solution is to take more than one photograph and bracket the photos. If we set the camera’s exposure to capture detail in the cliffs, the brighter sky is blown out and detail is lost. If we expose for the clouds the cliffs become dark. For example, there is a powerful cloudscape and some cliffs. Typically, we sacrifice elements in a photo when we press the shutter. The human eye can see a larger range of tones than the camera can capture on the chip or film in a single photograph. Basically it’s the process of taking multiple exposures and merging them together into a single 32-bit image. HDRI (High Dynamic Range Imaging) was originally used in 3D and is now in full force in photography. In this tutorial, we will look at HDR photography. ![]()
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